[QUOTE="gravitygamer"]is there any way to get the gfx card bios updated or something..i asked for an upgrade i dont have the money for that...on a really tight budget.GTR12
Its not GPU, your mobo doesn't even support AMD overdrive anymore.
he was able to overclock his previous card on this motherboard that was one of the things i had him do and he wasnt able to overclock with MSI afterburner either which is riva tuner which is a completely different program from amd over drive which was why i had him try that so its something to do with the card
Hey everyone, ive ordered my first ever bits to build my own pc. Done alot of research for my budget and just want to come on here and post what i got to see if its good to ease of my worrys :P
Here is what ive got: Cost me £800
MSI GeForce GTX 570 OC Twin FrozR III Power Edition 1280MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Intel Core i7 950 3.06GHz (Bloomfield) (Socket LGA1366) - Retail with FREE Shogun 2 Game
Asus P6X58D-E Intel X58 (Socket 1366) DDR3 Motherboard
Cooler Master CM690-II Lite Dominator Case & GX 750W Power Supply
Samsung SpinPoint F1 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache - OEM (HD103UJ)
LG GH22NS50 22x DVD±RW SATA ReWriter (Black) - OEM
My main hope is to be able to play battlefield 3 at a high end performance.
Also list some games i would be able to play really well.
Hope its good!
Thanks
Enaver
pretty much any game if i was nitpicking id say get a caviar black hdd for the 5 yr warranty and the 64mb cache the sata II is a bonus but it might only slighty increase your peak transfer rate
but id wait for ivy bridge at this point and keep saving your money youll be able oto do a sick rig by the time its out
hmmm its hard to say really if your willing to upgrade that psu id say get 2 6950s (alternatively u can get the one 6950 now sell the 5770 and then when ur ready bu yantoher 6950 and higher psu) 1 6950 will look better than 2 5770 cause the scaling for those and the 5800 series wasnt great thr 6k series has amazing scaling now some would go as far to say its better even than SLI scaling
Here in case you still dont understand or want to beleive these guys did a test and show everything i told you would happen if you overload a psu cheapo psu without a safety and a cheapo with a safety and then a decent name brand http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/889/No-name-brand-PSUs-vs-Known-Brands-MAD-testing/0#axzz1OlwrPHfh
i read another one on the net (id link it, but i couldnt find it) where they bought 3 cheap ones in the UK where theyre based lol one of them exploded when they overloaded no1 got hurt but you get the idea why you dont get crappy PSUs
kraken2109
The second one sounds like tomshardware
kudos you got it right here it is http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/low-cost-psu-pc-power-supply,review-32182.html
LOL i completely missed your earlier post about the exploding PSU, too we ended up at the same conclusion: dont risk it, it might explode did any of the parts die from the overload?
if you guys are wondering how the psu kills the psu take a look at the specs of the firdt test when it dies that 12v rail his 13 or 14 volts well thats what frys the componenets
Ok so im getting the COoler Master Scout case and it comes with 3 fans pre installed, I wanted to know If I could connect the fans to a fan controller whilst also keeping the functionality of being able to disable the LED's on the front panel... Anybody got any idea?
Richard_The_Gr8
fan controllers tend to install in the drive bays unless the size of the drive bay differs from the size of the drive bays available on the case it should fit as to the LED question i beleive no and i cliping the wire to the LED might interrupt the circuit = dead fan if it doesnt youd have to insulate the live portion of the wire but your gonna have to look online for how to do it or if some1 on has experience with it on here they can tell you more about it, i dont mind the LEDs :P
Here in case you still dont understand or want to beleive these guys did a test and show everything i told you would happen if you overload a psu cheapo psu without a safety and a cheapo with a safety and then a decent name brand http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/889/No-name-brand-PSUs-vs-Known-Brands-MAD-testing/0#axzz1OlwrPHfh
i read another one on the net (id link it, but i couldnt find it) where they bought 3 cheap ones in the UK where theyre based lol one of them exploded when they overloaded no1 got hurt but you get the idea why you dont get crappy PSUs
ok that wattage is the maximumamount of wattage all of the components combined should be around (its preferable to be slightly under for various reasons aging upgrades overclocking and not to super stress the psu) when you exceed that limit on that psu you pc will shut down because the critical componets for the functioning of the pc are underpowered the pc will actuomatically shut turn off without warning its no different that the plug being pulled because the total consumption exceeds the maximum out put
look at it this waya pretend computer draws 600watts under heavy gaming or a full load articial benchmark the psu is only capable of doing 500 steadily and 550 for periods of minutes at a time before it falls back in line to 500 or somewhere slightly above there to prevent the psu from trying to increase its own out put it has a safety in place (if its a decent psu the crap ones dont have it and burn themselves often taking components with them via a powersurge) to prevent the psu from killling itself and you also have to look at the ampage on the psu too thats another place where people make a mistake
corsair usually have around 100 amps capbability so their very good whcih is why i recommend them so much
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