List of lightest gaming mice

#1 Edited by EscShift (25 posts) -

I want to know what is the lightest gaming mouse known to man.

Lightest as in not heavy, and I DO NOT MEAN A MOUSE INTENDED FOR NOTEBOOKS, LIKE THOSE MICROSCOPIC MOUSE. ONLY FULL SIZE MICE HERE!!

It will be nice if you also have experience with the mouse, so you can tell a bit about how it feels.

I'm using a TEAC T-42, a 6$ mouse, and the only problem with it is having just 3 buttons.

And it also has an annoying clicking scroll wheel. Hate those.

#2 Posted by illmatic87 (14976 posts) -

Lightest mice would be wired optical/laser mice that dont use batteries.

#3 Edited by JigglyWiggly_ (23373 posts) -

The original razer salmosa is probably very light. I use the razer salmosa pro which is a shrunked salmosa and it's 59 grams.

#4 Edited by EscShift (25 posts) -

Quote illmatic87:

"Lightest mice would be wired optical/laser mice that dont use batteries.."

EscShift: Cool, now can you name the lightest of them? BTW, is laser mouse usually heavier than regular optical mouse?

Quote JigglyWiggly:

"The original razer salmosa is probably very light. I use the razer salmosa pro which is a shrunked salmosa and it's 59 grams."

EscShift: The Salmosa itself is a mini mouse, therefore not part of the list paramaters, and I quote:

"and I DO NOT MEAN A MOUSE INTENDED FOR NOTEBOOKS, LIKE THOSE MICROSCOPIC MOUSE. ONLY FULL SIZE MICE HERE!!"

So obviously a shrunked salmosa would fit the list even less.

#5 Edited by JigglyWiggly_ (23373 posts) -

@EscShift said:

Quote illmatic87:

"Lightest mice would be wired optical/laser mice that dont use batteries.."

EscShift: Cool, now can you name the lightest of them? BTW, is laser mouse usually heavier than regular optical mouse?

Quote JigglyWiggly:

"The original razer salmosa is probably very light. I use the razer salmosa pro which is a shrunked salmosa and it's 59 grams."

EscShift: The Salmosa itself is a mini mouse, therefore not part of the list paramaters, and I quote:

"and I DO NOT MEAN A MOUSE INTENDED FOR NOTEBOOKS, LIKE THOSE MICROSCOPIC MOUSE. ONLY FULL SIZE MICE HERE!!"

So obviously a shrunked salmosa would fit the list even less.

I'd recommend some reading comprehension. The Salmosa is the larger edition, I have the Salmosa pro which is smaller and weighs 59 grams.

Hence, go look at the normal Salmosa.

#6 Edited by EscShift (25 posts) -

@JigglyWiggly_:

Apparantly, there are several versions of the regular salmosa, and in google I saw the smaller version (picture pasted):

http://i45.tinypic.com/muixhw.jpg

OK, so we have a Salmosa, which is, if I understand correctly, out of production, and we have the TEAC T-42.

Both with only 3 buttons and a clicky scroller.

So that's it? Only two? That's the best you lot can do?

I'm talking about gaming mice, extremely light ones, so light that you barely feel any resistence when moving them around on a gamer mouse pad or even on a regular pad.

And with more than 3 buttons! And a smooth scroller! Is that so much to ask?

#7 Edited by PredatorRules (7080 posts) -

SteelSeries Kana - 72grams

Roccat Lua - about 70grams excluding cable

I'd go with Kana because it's got thumb botton as well as the dpi changer, about the smooth scroller - you can make one out of any mouse, you need to open it and remove 1 small metal part, browse YouTube for a guide.

#8 Edited by SerOlmy (1616 posts) -

If you are going to get a kana wait a couple months until the v2 is in the states. The v1 is notorious for cursor tremor. I had one for a couple months it started out amazing, but then the cursor tremor started and accuracy went to shit. This is very common in v1 kanas. I'm hoping the v2 will be better, because the thumb button is the best design I have ever used.

#9 Posted by EscShift (25 posts) -

@PredatorRules:

Everytime I open a mouse to remove the pin, it feels like the mouse is tripwired to break.

That's why I wanted it to come with a smooth scroller from the factory, or to have an option to disable the clicks with a push of a button. You would expect that with the 60$ they charge for a piece of plastic with buttons and a light diode (and a rubber cord).

BTW, the kana looks like a decent mouse, although the TEAC T-42 is 50grams, maybe even less.

Sniping enemy's heads in BF3 from 500 meters never had been so easy, since I've been using the T-42.

The problem with a heavy mouse, or a mouse that for some other reason (maybe the pad) has high resistance to pushing or pulling (movement) is that it is hard to do milimetric movements to align the enemy's head, who is hundreds of meters away, with the cross-heirs.

It also harder to use it on CQB fights, when you see multiple enemies appearing in front of you and need to move the mouse extremely quick, yet very accurately, to deliver quick kills to survive.

#10 Posted by PredatorRules (7080 posts) -

@EscShift said:

@PredatorRules:

Everytime I open a mouse to remove the pin, it feels like the mouse is tripwired to break.

That's why I wanted it to come with a smooth scroller from the factory, or to have an option to disable the clicks with a push of a button. You would expect that with the 60$ they charge for a piece of plastic with buttons and a light diode (and a rubber cord).

BTW, the kana looks like a decent mouse, although the TEAC T-42 is 50grams, maybe even less.

Sniping enemy's heads in BF3 from 500 meters never had been so easy, since I've been using the T-42.

The problem with a heavy mouse, or a mouse that for some other reason (maybe the pad) has high resistance to pushing or pulling (movement) is that it is hard to do milimetric movements to align the enemy's head, who is hundreds of meters away, with the cross-heirs.

It also harder to use it on CQB fights, when you see multiple enemies appearing in front of you and need to move the mouse extremely quick, yet very accurately, to deliver quick kills to survive.

FYI most gaming mouses weight about 120-140 grams, so a 70 one is the lightest you can wish for.

If you wish a low friction mouse pad I can recommend on the Razer Goliathus Speed edition or you can search for other brands but you'd want it to be as thin as possible (1-3mm)

#11 Posted by EscShift (25 posts) -

@SerOlmy:

I have this post limit, it's so annoying...

OK, visited directly from google the Kana page, and it talks about the V1 and V1.1, but going to products to see how it is labeled in the catalog, and it's written V2. I'm not from USA, but from Israel, and I can see it is already possible to order the V2 here, so weird that a 3rd world country gets it b4 USA. And you say months till V2 is in the USA? Weird.

Oh, and mouse tremors.. Proves my point exactly. More than 25 years of gaming, and after huge amount of mice and keyboards and other stuff, I can tell you with absolute certainty that reliability of cheap and costly is almost indistinguishable. Some of the cheap stuff were more fragile, but that’s it!

No difference between a 60$ mouse and a 6$ mouse.

Here, just bought a "gaming" keyboard, SpeedLink Pathica Core. Costs more than 60$. For a keyboard, yes.. Shitty software, shitty design (comfortable, if you have 3 hands), and on top of all that, I need to RMA it to the store, because even the limited anti-ghosting (the only reason I bought a "gaming" keyboard) works inconsistently every time in the same game, in the same session (and other games).

And the USB connection of the keyboard just disconnects by itself after random time.

#12 Posted by GTR12 (8923 posts) -

@EscShift said:

The problem with a heavy mouse, or a mouse that for some other reason (maybe the pad) has high resistance to pushing or pulling (movement) is that it is hard to do milimetric movements to align the enemy's head, who is hundreds of meters away, with the cross-heirs.

You make it sound like you haven't used a DPI changer on a mouse while your in game.

#13 Posted by IvanElk (3798 posts) -

@EscShift said:

@SerOlmy:

I have this post limit, it's so annoying...

OK, visited directly from google the Kana page, and it talks about the V1 and V1.1, but going to products to see how it is labeled in the catalog, and it's written V2. I'm not from USA, but from Israel, and I can see it is already possible to order the V2 here, so weird that a 3rd world country gets it b4 USA. And you say months till V2 is in the USA? Weird.

Oh, and mouse tremors.. Proves my point exactly. More than 25 years of gaming, and after huge amount of mice and keyboards and other stuff, I can tell you with absolute certainty that reliability of cheap and costly is almost indistinguishable. Some of the cheap stuff were more fragile, but that’s it!

No difference between a 60$ mouse and a 6$ mouse.

Here, just bought a "gaming" keyboard, SpeedLink Pathica Core. Costs more than 60$. For a keyboard, yes.. Shitty software, shitty design (comfortable, if you have 3 hands), and on top of all that, I need to RMA it to the store, because even the limited anti-ghosting (the only reason I bought a "gaming" keyboard) works inconsistently every time in the same game, in the same session (and other games).

And the USB connection of the keyboard just disconnects by itself after random time.

Israel is not a third world country.

#14 Posted by ferrari2001 (16677 posts) -

If I take the weight cartridge out of my Logitec Gaming mouse it becomes pretty light. Although probably not as light as you are imagining. But it has a DPI change button on the mouse so I can accurately tune how fine the movement are so I really don't need it to be light.

#15 Posted by PredatorRules (7080 posts) -

@EscShift said:

@SerOlmy:

I have this post limit, it's so annoying...

OK, visited directly from google the Kana page, and it talks about the V1 and V1.1, but going to products to see how it is labeled in the catalog, and it's written V2. I'm not from USA, but from Israel, and I can see it is already possible to order the V2 here, so weird that a 3rd world country gets it b4 USA. And you say months till V2 is in the USA? Weird.

Oh, and mouse tremors.. Proves my point exactly. More than 25 years of gaming, and after huge amount of mice and keyboards and other stuff, I can tell you with absolute certainty that reliability of cheap and costly is almost indistinguishable. Some of the cheap stuff were more fragile, but that’s it!

No difference between a 60$ mouse and a 6$ mouse.

Here, just bought a "gaming" keyboard, SpeedLink Pathica Core. Costs more than 60$. For a keyboard, yes.. Shitty software, shitty design (comfortable, if you have 3 hands), and on top of all that, I need to RMA it to the store, because even the limited anti-ghosting (the only reason I bought a "gaming" keyboard) works inconsistently every time in the same game, in the same session (and other games).

And the USB connection of the keyboard just disconnects by itself after random time.

Should've bought Rapax.

About the products, if something is cheap, it doesn't mean it's worse than the other thing that costs more.

I don't know why the white version is almost twice cheaper in Israel but whatever (שלום גם לך =) )

I'd definitely pick the white version, unless you're annoyed it's going to be dirty after long time use.

#16 Edited by kraken2109 (12950 posts) -

You don't want a scroll wheel that clicks? You do realise that would be useless for gaming right?

Anyway, my roccat kova+ seems pretty light, 90g according to the website.

#17 Edited by EscShift (25 posts) -

OK, I'll try to make order here:

1) I was mistaken about the weight of the TEAC T-42, it's about 110 grams, not 50 (long story).

So every mouse that is 110 and less, (almost*) fits the profile, and cheers to all who had recommended here such mice (predatorRules is the winner - ~70 grams, the best so far).

2) The list so far:

ROCCAT-Kova and Kova+

SteelSeries Kana V2 (the Sensei is interesting too)

SteelSeries Kana - 72grams

Roccat Lua - about 70grams excluding cable

And the Razer Salmosa full size.

3) * Why almost? well I'll explain:

GTR12: "You make it sound like you haven't used a DPI changer on a mouse while your in game." You're right, I haven't used such a thing.. Haven't felt I needed it, and I'm still not sure it's the solution.

I read this:

http://www.howtogeek.com/182702/mouse-dpi-and-polling-rates-explained-do-they-matter-for-gaming/

http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2010/02/does-dpi-matter-in-gaming-mice-one-mouse-maker-says-no/

http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2010/03/razer-fires-back-why-dpi-in-a-gaming-mouse-does-matter/

It seems there are many contradiction between suggestions on the net for what gear should be used for FPS games and also what DPI+sensitivity settings with the specific gear (I can't believe one kind of DPI+Sens can cover all usage), so the question is this:

What mouse can be used to frag with regular rifles (MG's, AR's, PDW's), AND also snipe from a far (IE, produce slow smooth movements of the cursor / cross heirs so you'll be able to pin point a certain pixel representing someone's head), and all that by your choice (I guess by some button).

The only reason I feel I need this is because, even after Delta Force (1998), there are games (BF3) which have one mouse sensitivity for all soldier weapons.

(And my opinion is that being lightweight makes any mouse better, so whatever mouse it may be, it should be light).

4) Kraken: You don't want a scroll wheel that clicks? You do realise that would be useless for gaming right? What way do you use it for gaming that needs clicks? Although I usually don't use the scroll wheel in gaming (it's all preference), I can still use my self made unclicking scroller to change weapons and stuff (I use it in "Mechwarrior 4 Mercenaries", the - now - free game). It's all about practice.

5) PredatorRules:

Should've bought Rapax.

EscShift: They don't say anything about anti-ghosting, and it's the one feature I really need:

http://www.speedlink.com/?p=2&cat=241&pid=26957&paus=1

I'm thinking about the Corsair keyboards (K50 / K60 / K70). They seem to be very close to N-key roll over, and I'm thinking about the K60 (don't like the K50's left side additional buttons), but the K60 doesn't have back lighting (which impresses girls, seriously.. The only good thing that came out the of the RMA'ed Parthica - - You see Ivan, told you it's a third world country!)

The K70 is very costly (NA in Israel, So I'll have to order from Amazon, pay some taxes, and after all that, pay additional 40$ to engrave my biblical language on it).

Predator: I don't know why the white version is almost twice cheaper in Israel but whatever (שלום גם לך =) )

Good question.

So, it's late at night, I have to go to sleep, but thank you all, and I really want to hear what mouse and settings you recommend I use for what I want to do.

Shalom (peace) and layla (night) tov (good)** to all of you.

**Hebrew is right to left word writing and talking.

#18 Posted by GTR12 (8923 posts) -

@EscShift:

Those websites don't explain what I'm talking about.

Eg: my g700 has a in-game DPI switcher, its normally set at 1000 for a productivity profile (in-built memory) and with a press of a button, it changes to gaming mode (as I've called it), this mode has 5 DPI settings (400, 1000, 1200, 3200, 5000), I hardly ever use 5000, but it has the option...

I can increase and decrease the DPI depending on situation (with a press of another button), it changes on-the-fly with limited programmability of buttons and profiles.

#19 Posted by kraken2109 (12950 posts) -

How can you change weapon with a mouse wheel that doesn't click as you turn it? Seems like you'd just end up overshooting.

#20 Posted by jer_1 (7419 posts) -

My vote is for that Razer Deathadder 2013, that's a badass mouse right there.

#21 Posted by EscShift (25 posts) -

@GTR12:

Those websites don't explain what I'm talking about.

Eg: my g700 has a in-game DPI switcher, its normally set at 1000 for a productivity profile (in-built memory) and with a press of a button, it changes to gaming mode (as I've called it), this mode has 5 DPI settings (400, 1000, 1200, 3200, 5000), I hardly ever use 5000, but it has the option...

I can increase and decrease the DPI depending on situation (with a press of another button), it changes on-the-fly with limited programmability of buttons and profiles.

Actually, the first one mentioned what you said.

So what you're saying is, that changing DPI / CPI can make the same mouse, in-game, on the fly, in the flick of a (mouse) button, adapt itself for sniping tasks and then back to assault rifle tasks or whatever, yes?

So DPI / CPI profiles basically change the sensitivity of the mouse? Because I understand there are mice with options to change DPI / CPI and ALSO sensitivity. By what you and those articles said, the DPI / CPI settings should cover / make redundant any sensitivity settings, no?

#22 Edited by GTR12 (8923 posts) -

@EscShift said:

@GTR12:

Those websites don't explain what I'm talking about.

Eg: my g700 has a in-game DPI switcher, its normally set at 1000 for a productivity profile (in-built memory) and with a press of a button, it changes to gaming mode (as I've called it), this mode has 5 DPI settings (400, 1000, 1200, 3200, 5000), I hardly ever use 5000, but it has the option...

I can increase and decrease the DPI depending on situation (with a press of another button), it changes on-the-fly with limited programmability of buttons and profiles.

Actually, the first one mentioned what you said.

So what you're saying is, that changing DPI / CPI can make the same mouse, in-game, on the fly, in the flick of a (mouse) button, adapt itself for sniping tasks and then back to assault rifle tasks or whatever, yes?

So DPI / CPI profiles basically change the sensitivity of the mouse? Because I understand there are mice with options to change DPI / CPI and ALSO sensitivity. By what you and those articles said, the DPI / CPI settings should cover / make redundant any sensitivity settings, no?

It doesn't make it redundant exactly, it just removes the need to make a super light-weight mouse because as you said it changes sensitivity as well. With a tiny movement, I could spin 360 degrees on my character if I wanted to.

#23 Edited by General_X (9023 posts) -

The ole Microsoft wired optical mouse is about the lightest mouse I've ever used, not sure they make them any more or not.

#24 Posted by EscShift (25 posts) -

GTR12:

It doesn't make it redundant exactly, it just removes the need to make a super light-weight mouse because as you said it changes sensitivity as well. With a tiny movement, I could spin 360 degrees on my character if I wanted to.

I need exactly the opposite. Big movement that results in tiny microscopic travel of the aiming reticule / cross heirs so I can pinpoint specific pixels.

Can it be done with a push of a button on a mouse, and if yes, specify please how and what etc'.

#25 Posted by kraken2109 (12950 posts) -

@EscShift said:

GTR12:

It doesn't make it redundant exactly, it just removes the need to make a super light-weight mouse because as you said it changes sensitivity as well. With a tiny movement, I could spin 360 degrees on my character if I wanted to.

I need exactly the opposite. Big movement that results in tiny microscopic travel of the aiming reticule / cross heirs so I can pinpoint specific pixels.

Can it be done with a push of a button on a mouse, and if yes, specify please how and what etc'.

Pretty much any gaming mouse will allow you to do this, all you do is map changing of DPI or sensitivity to some buttons or combination.

e.g. I do this on my kova+ by holding a side button and scrolling the wheel

#26 Edited by JigglyWiggly_ (23373 posts) -

I'm not sure why you guys are bothering to ask someone who seems seems pretty self entitled with their responses(and potentially retarded).

To sum up so he stops posting:

The kana v2 is a light mouse, but the clicks aren't that good.

The Salmosa if anything like the pro edition has decent clicks and an okay scroll wheel. It is most likely the lightest, you can find new ones on ebay.

The g100s is a decent sized mouse. It weights very little, has great clicks and has a decent scroll wheel.

The deathadder 4g while it is considered light for its size is not nearly as light as the mice listed above.

DPI and precision are not directly related. You want to use the sensor's native dpi, this is rarely the maximum. 3D games don't move in pixels(independent on resolution), they use approximation.

If you would like to read more, here http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/tech-support/333648-an-overview-of-mouse-technology

You could simply do your own research to check the weight of any mouse that interests you.

#27 Edited by EscShift (25 posts) -

OK, decided to buy the KOVA+. 90grams, CPI 400-3200 + option to set functions to buttons (thus enabling me to assign sensitivity settings + / - changing to mouse buttons, in case changing CPI won't do).

The other option was SteelSeries Sensei RAW rubber - 90grams, 90-5670 CPI, Laser sensor, which also looks like a capable mouse, but I it's N\A in my country.

When I'll get the mouse, I'll report in here about battle results, for the sake of anyone who has the same question.

Thanks to all of you, especially Kraken, PredatorRules and GTR12, for all the help.

P.S

JigglyWiggly, for someone who made more than 23,347 posts since 2009 (that's like 12 posts a day, I hope they're paying ya for that..), you really don't understand the point of a forum.

But thanks anyway for the link you provided. I don't know how useful people here will find it, as most are looking for a quick solution, not an almost insanely thorough explanation (and I do respect the author), but I learned a few things from it, even on game designing. So, again, thanks.

#28 Posted by PredatorRules (7080 posts) -

@EscShift said:

OK, decided to buy the KOVA+. 90grams, CPI 400-3200 + option to set functions to buttons (thus enabling me to assign sensitivity settings + / - changing to mouse buttons, in case changing CPI won't do).

The other option was SteelSeries Sensei RAW rubber - 90grams, 90-5670 CPI, Laser sensor, which also looks like a capable mouse, but I it's N\A in my country.

When I'll get the mouse, I'll report in here about battle results, for the sake of anyone who has the same question.

Thanks to all of you, especially Kraken, PredatorRules and GTR12, for all the help.

P.S

JigglyWiggly, for someone who made more than 23,347 posts since 2009 (that's like 12 posts a day, I hope they're paying ya for that..), you really don't understand the point of a forum.

But thanks anyway for the link you provided. I don't know how useful people here will find it, as most are looking for a quick solution, not an almost insanely thorough explanation (and I do respect the author), but I learned a few things from it, even on game designing. So, again, thanks.

The Kova + is a unique gaming mice I'd give that to Roccat (I hope you'll use it's full potential without a problem)