Not often but I do sometimes. Usually on a subsequent playthrough of a game just to try and avoid any annoyances I found on the 1st.

Especially if that single player game is so obviously designed to be an MMO style grind in order to "encourage" microtransactions.

Given the fact their games are all DRM free anyway I don't see how it's any more open to abuse than it already was?

Why would someone looking to play the game for free bother going through a transaction on GoG to refund it later when they can easily get a DRM free GoG copy from elsewhere?

As the story goes, it was supposedly about DLC sales. Some shady devs/publishers were putting games free to play on Steam and then sellling content off Steam, circumventing Valve's cut. EA also sold their DLC outside Steam for their games. Valve changed their rules so that if you released a game on Steam then you had to also sell the extra content through Steam.

Already existing games were "grandfathered in" meaning they were unaffected by the new rules unless new content was released for that game - wihch is what happened with Dragon Age II and Crysis 2, they only got removed once DLC came out for them, meaning they fell foul of Valve's new rules. It's why Mass Effect for example remains to this day. Crysis 2 even returned later on once a complete edition was released which included all the DLC.

EA blamed Valve, Valve didn't really say much other than Gabe saying something along the lines of "We'll have to try and prove our value to EA".

It will be interesting to see how DLC sales are handled for EA's games once they start to get added on Steam.

I recently replayed Assassin's Creed II (I guess not quite ten years old until next month but still...) and it's STILL my favourite AC game out of them all.

I plan to get both eventually. Will likely get Scarlett at launch and the PS5 later on. Although I might just decide to wait for the inevitable slim versions on both.

Ah ok they must have fixed that then. I did wonder whether it was a bluetooth limitation (like with the no audio or one controller paired at a time) or was just a driver or firmware issue.

The first game I bought on steam was Mass Effect back in 2010. I even remember why, it was 2am and I'd just finished Mass Effect 2 and liked it so much I wanted to play through it again but decided I wanted to play ME1 first as I'd read about the save transfer feature, so I joined Steam and bought it on there.

This is accurate yeah among it's many other issues. The default routing for sims was terribly done by EA and they get stuck all the time, the game then tries to work out a route for them but constantly fails to do so. More sims get stuck more routes to try to work out and it soon screws with the game as your CPU resources are used up. There are fixes including downloading the worlds from a sims modder (EllaCharmed) who has fixed the routing and a number of NRAAS mods (overwatch and errortrap at the least) that also cleans up the various mess that the game itself leaves behind.

Long story short, EA were terrible at making this game and it takes a lot of work just to get it to run well without lots of issues.

There is the original Xbox One controller and there is the updated revised controller that came with the Xbox One S. The revised controller has bluetooth and a headphone jack (so no more adapters required). The X uses the same controller that the S came with. There are just the two types of controller (excluding the elite).

Visually the way to tell them apart is to look at where the Xbox button is in the centre. In this picture the original controller is at the top and the revised "Xbox One S" controller is at the bottom. Note how on the original controller it is part of the black plastic where the bumpers are but on the newer controller it is part of the controller face itself.

Both of the links you provided linked to the newer controller, however the first link did confuse the issue by having a picture of the older controller as the first picture - if his description is accurate and it has the 3.5mm jack for headsets/headphones then it is the newer controller.

It depends on how you wish to use the controller as to whether it's best to buy the wireless adapter or use bluetooth. If you want to use headsets/headphones via the controller's jack then you'll need the wireless adapter as headsets are not supported via bluetooth and only one controller at a time is supported. With the wireless adapter you can connect multiple controllers and use headsets.

I'm not 100% if this is still the case but trigger rumble doesn't work over bluetooth though the normal rumble does. With the wireless adapter or cable it works fine.

So with all that said my recommendation would be to get the adapter rather than using bluetooth but as I said it depends on what you want.

Edit* - Also yes I realise this is a month old post but it's worth answering if others have the same question.

I bought a new motherboard & CPU - Asus RoG Maximus X Hero + i7 8086K to replace my Asus Z170 Pro Gaming + i7 6700K. I went with the 8086K because there seemed to be shortages of the 8700K pushing prices up to 8086K prices anyway. Plus it EASILY overclocks to run all six cores at 5Ghz.

I also finally got my first NVMe SSD - A 1TB Samsung 970 Evo.

Also got a Logitech G903 wireless mouse and G613 wireless mechanical keyboard.