I will say that regardless of what I state in this post, the Christopher Nolan films are the best to date for many reasons, period. But...
Personally, I really loved Batman Returns.
Even though it copped a lot of hate when it was released for being too dark compared to the first film, in my mind, this is the movie I think of when I think of Batman & his universe in general.
It has charm. Gothic and creepy with a great atmosphere & score. Michelle Pfeiffer is still the best live action Catwoman imo. Danny Devito was great as the Penguin too.
I think overall the Tim Burton movies would be praised more highly if there was more of a backstory to his version of Bruce Wayne. I truly think at the end of the day that was the only thing lacking.