Car Audio Question?

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#1 Posted by Mkavanaugh77 (20736 posts) -

Hey any help would be great, thanks.

I plan on buying these subwoofers (2 of them) for my car audio system and wanted to know what a good amplifier would be to run both of them smoothly?

A Jl Audio amp would be preffered and a price range around 400$

Any suggestions?

#2 Posted by NVIDIATI (7652 posts) -

I don't have an answer to your question, but I'm sure Boz will be able to help you.

One things I will add, I noticed you're ordering in Canada and you may want to take a look at Solen(http://solen.ca/pub/index.php).

Most of their speakers/amps are higher quality (Hi-Vi, ScanSpeak, Seas, Peerless, etc.), but the prices are also reasonable.

#3 Posted by Bozanimal (2483 posts) -
Any amplifier capable of between 500w and 1,000w RMS will do a very good job of powering those speakers. Note that if you're going for pure volume, you can get by with slightly less power in a ported enclosure and accomplish similar volume levels due to the higher efficiency of ported enclosures, though you sacrifice some stability. Considering your criteria the JL Audio XD600 is probably going to be your ideal amp, from the site you listed. Note that you'll want to use a 50amp wiring kit with 4AWG wiring minimum. If you're adding more than one amp for your other speakers you'll need a bigger wiring kit. You'll also need an enclosure for those subs. Ideally you want to build one yourself to the manufacturer's spec, but if you're not comfortable doing that you should by a quality pre-fabricated enclosure within the size range recommended. The enclosure makes a huge, HUGE difference in the output of your subwoofers in terms of both volume and quality. An enclosure not built to spec can make a $400 sub sound like a $50 sub. Lastly, I almost always recommend a 12" sub unless you lack the space. A 10" sub is smaller, but you sacrifice some low-end extension. Let me know if you have any additional questions. I'm a former MECP-certified car audio installer, and happy to help. Happy gaming, Boz
#4 Posted by NVIDIATI (7652 posts) -
#5 Posted by Bozanimal (2483 posts) -
Oh, there are tons of better options for subwoofers at lower prices in terms of pure performance, but from the original post Mkavanaugh77 was looking for JL Audio specifically. In the car audio space brand is as much a status symbol as an indicator of quality, and JL Audio has both, though you pay for it. I wouldn't go for the Seas, though, due to the peak vs. RMS power handling. Car subs take a lot of punishment from users, and really do need all the fancy butyl rubber surrounds, composite cones, etc. to withstand said abuse. That's not to say alternatives aren't out there for less. Those two JL w3's (basically JL's mid-range sub) run $560 CAD for a pair. A fully enclosed pair of Kicker CVR 12's - two 12's in a ported box - can be had for about $350 USD plus shipping, and handles 800w RMS. Or a pair of 10" Pioneer Premier Champion Pro subs can be had for under $150, and will theoretically handle more power. The same goes for subs from Kicker, Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, etc. I'm partial to the Alpine's Type-R subs, which are a bit more pricey, but which I've found to have very high-quality construction, a very controlled sound, and high output. The same goes for amplifiers, too, though it can be very tough to discern quality amplifiers from their crappier cousins even from reputable brands. Happy gaming, Boz
#6 Posted by NVIDIATI (7652 posts) -

The same goes for amplifiers, too, though it can be very tough to discern quality amplifiers from their crappier cousins even from reputable brands. Happy gaming, BozBozanimal

I'd think amplifiers to be the easy part. Take for example something like a ~$200 B&O Icepower 125ASX2 class D amplifier, it seems like it would be ideal for car applications. It has a crisp sound at 2x125w (4 Ohm) or 1x550w (4 Ohm), being Class D it's power efficient and produces very little heat. There is also the less powerful 50ASX2 and more powerful 250ASX2.

#7 Posted by Bozanimal (2483 posts) -
You'd think so, right? But if you look at, say, Rockford Fosgate, they've got three amplifiers that are rated at 500W RMS. Each one, however, has different size capacitors, power supplies, efficiencies, etc. So it can be tough to wade through the crap for a neophyte. Also, you can't really compare amplifiers designed for AC to those in a car audio environment. For example, the stellar Sure Electronics amps from Parts Express look great on paper- until you realized that the input voltage is only rated 0 - 500mV. Most car stereo receivers put out somewhere between 1.8V to as much as 6V, which would damage the amplifier. Similarly, I don't think those B&O amps are built for mobile specs: They're designed for an AC power supply with its own DC converter, though it's getting a bit complicated for me at that point. Happy gaming, Boz
#8 Posted by NVIDIATI (7652 posts) -

I didn't think getting a DC/AC converter would be hard, turns out the ICEpower A series appears to be directed for automotive/marine applications.

#9 Posted by rickliao (60 posts) -

great